You are sitting in your kitchen enjoying a quiet moment, but there is a background noise that just won’t quit. That hum, buzz, or drone from your appliance never seems to shut off. If you notice your refrigerator running constantly, it is more than just an annoyance—it is a warning sign.
A healthy refrigerator should cycle on and off. It runs to cool down, then rests when the temperature is reached.
If your refrigerator won’t stop running, it is working overtime to keep your food cold. This leads to skyrocketing electricity bills, premature wear on the compressor, and eventually, total failure.
The good news? The most common cause is just dust.
In this guide, we will walk you through the 5 reasons your fridge is running a marathon, including how to clean refrigerator coils, check your door seals, and troubleshoot the defrost system.
The “Normal” Run Time: How Long Should It Run?
Before you grab your toolbox, let’s define “constantly.”
Modern, high-efficiency refrigerators run longer (but quieter) than older models.
Standard Cycle: A typical fridge runs about 35% to 50% of the time.
Summer Cycle: In hot weather or humid kitchens, it might run 80% to 90% of the time.
The Red Flag: If your fridge runs 100% of the time (never shuts off) and the compressor is hot to the touch, you have a problem.
Cause #1: Dirty Condenser Coils (The #1 Reason for a Refrigerator Running Constantly)
This is the culprit in nearly 80% of cases. If you have never cleaned behind or underneath your fridge, this is your problem.
The Problem: Your refrigerator removes heat from the inside and releases it into your kitchen through black metal tubes called condenser coils. If these coils get coated in thick dust, pet hair, and lint, they can’t release the heat.
The Result: The compressor has to run non-stop to compensate for the trapped heat. It’s like trying to run a marathon while wearing a winter coat.
How to Fix It (Deep Clean): This is the best maintenance you can do. Learning how to clean refrigerator coils will save you money instantly.
Locate the Coils: On older fridges, they are on the back (easy to see). On newer models, they are underneath, accessible from the front (behind the kick-plate) or the back (behind a panel).
Unplug the Unit: Safety first.
Vacuum the Dust: Use a long vacuum hose attachment to suck out the big dust bunnies.
Brush the Coils: You will need a specialized refrigerator coil brush to get deep between the tubes. This tool is essential.
Final Vacuum: Suck up the loosened dust and plug it back in.
Result: Your fridge should cycle off within an hour or two.
Cause #2: Low Temperature Settings Causing Refrigerator Running Constantly
Sometimes, the problem isn’t a broken part; it’s an unrealistic setting.
The Problem: If you set your refrigerator to 34°F or 35°F, the compressor has to work incredibly hard to maintain that near-freezing temperature. This is often unnecessary and leads to a refrigerator running constantly just to fight the ambient room temperature.
The Fix:
Check the Setting: The ideal temperature is 37°F for the fridge and 0°F for the freezer.
Adjust Upwards: If you are at the bottom of the range, bump it up to 38°F.
Verify: Use an external thermometer. If the fridge is actually colder than the setting, you might have a refrigerator freezing food issue, which points to a bad thermistor or damper.
Cause #3: Defective Door Gaskets (Why Your Refrigerator Won’t Stop Running)
Your fridge is trying to cool the food, but if the door seal is bad, it’s trying to cool your whole kitchen.
The Problem: The rubber seal (gasket) around your doors keeps cold air in and warm air out. If this seal is torn, dirty, or brittle, warm air constantly leaks inside. The thermostat senses this warmth and tells the compressor to keep running to fight the influx of heat.
The Diagnostic Test:
Visual Inspection: Look for cracks, tears, or black mold on the rubber.
The Dollar Bill Test: Open the door and place a dollar bill halfway in. Close the door. Pull the bill.
Resistance: If there is a drag, the seal is good.
Slips Out: If it slides out easily, the seal is bad and needs replacing.
The Solution: Clean the gasket with warm soapy water (sometimes it’s just sticky food preventing a seal). If it’s torn, order a new refrigerator door gasket for your model. It usually presses into a groove—no glue required.
Cause #4: Defrost Failure Leading to a Refrigerator Running Constantly
This issue is tricky because the fridge will run constantly, but it will actually get warmer over time.
The Problem: Every 8-10 hours, a heater turns on to melt frost off the cooling coils. If the defrost heater, defrost timer, or defrost thermostat fails, ice builds up.
The Effect: A wall of ice blocks airflow. The thermostat senses the fridge is warm and screams at the compressor to “Run! Run! Run!” The compressor obeys, resulting in a refrigerator running constantly, but the cold air never reaches the food.
How to Diagnose:
Check the Freezer: Look at the back wall of the freezer. Do you see a buildup of frost or snow (not just on the food, but on the wall itself)?
Check the Temp: Is the freezer cold but the fridge warm? This is a classic sign. Read our guide on refrigerator not cold but freezer is ok for the full fix on this specific problem.
Cause #5: A Failing Component (Motors or Sealed System)
If the coils are clean, the seals are tight, and there is no ice buildup, you might have a mechanical failure.
Possibility A: The Condenser Fan Motor This fan sits near the compressor and cools it down. If this fan dies, the compressor overheats and runs inefficiently.
The Check: Pull the fridge out and remove the back panel. Is the fan spinning when the compressor is on? If not, you need a new fan motor.
Possibility B: The Sealed System (Low Freon) This is the worst-case scenario. If your fridge has a refrigerant leak, there isn’t enough gas to create cooling. The compressor runs 24/7 trying to reach a temperature it can physically never achieve.
The Check: If the fridge runs constantly but is essentially room temperature inside (and the coils are clean), you likely have a sealed system leak. This usually requires a professional repair or a new refrigerator.
Related Symptoms: What Else is Happening?
A fridge that won’t stop running often triggers other issues.
Noise: Is the constant running accompanied by a clicking sound? This means the compressor is overheating and trying to restart. Check our guide on refrigerator making a clicking noise immediately.
Water: If the constant running causes the evaporator to freeze up and then melt all at once during a manual defrost, you might find a refrigerator leaking water on the floor.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Will a new refrigerator run constantly? Yes, for the first 24 hours. A new fridge needs to cool down from room temperature and cool all the plastic and shelves inside. It will run non-stop for a full day. This is normal.
Why are the sides of my refrigerator hot? This is a direct symptom of refrigerator running constantly. The heat from the compressor is dissipating through the side walls (the “yoder loop”). If the sides are burning hot, clean your coils immediately.
Does a fridge run more in the summer? Absolutely. If your kitchen is 80°F, the fridge has to work much harder than if the kitchen is 65°F. Ensure there is airflow around the fridge cabinet to help it breathe.
How much electricity does a constantly running fridge use? A lot. A healthy fridge costs about $5-$10 a month to run. A fridge with a bad seal or dirty coils that runs 24/7 can double or triple that cost. Fixing it pays for itself in energy savings.
Conclusion: Give Your Fridge a Break
A refrigerator running constantly is a cry for help. It is trying to tell you that it cannot breathe or it cannot keep the cold air in.
Your Action Plan:
Clean the Coils: This solves 80% of problems.
Check the Seals: Perform the dollar bill test.
Monitor the Frost: Look for snow on the freezer back wall.
By taking 20 minutes to perform these simple maintenance steps, you can stop the noise, lower your electric bill, and extend the life of your appliance by years.
